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blitzen ridge ypsilon

In mid-May my partner Wade Morris and I boarded our red-eye to Anchorage (our third teammate had to drop out due to a foot injury). It looked like non-technical terrain from here on out. Share to Twitter Share to Facebook Share to Pinterest. We had planned to simul-climb, but once on the summit of the first ace Fabio decided to just bring me up because simul-climbing over the top and down the other side would have caused too much rope drag. After packing up and reorganizing our kit we resumed the death march back to the car and arrived at the Lawn Lake Trailhead at 19:30. The summit of Ypsilon Peak is at 13,500 feet in elevation — so altitude plays a major factor as well. Location: Ypsilon Mountain, Colorado 80517, USA. Start from the Lawn Lake Trailhead, where Fall River Road splits from Highway 34 in Rocky Mountain National Park. Follow this trail all the way to Ypsilon Lake (3 more miles). I would advise staying down close to the water to work through the trees. That was a small price to pay for a successful ascent of the route. P.S. Blitzen Ridge - Ypsilon ; Route: Ypsilon via Blitzen Ridge Partner: OldTrad Mileage: 11.85 Ascent: About 5k (watch altimeter is apparently on the fritz) Time: About 9 hours Route: Lawn Lake TH to Chapin Pass TH with car shuttle So last year after completing LB NW Face and the traverse to Blanca, and the Sangres dash, I decided I wanted to start looking at more technical ridges. We were slow, got to the summit just before dark. Ypsilon Mountain. Despite forecasted rain, we decided to go for it anyway with an alpine start and a plan to be back to the car by 1pm. Blitzen Ridge, Ypsilon Mountain . Luckily the weather held off and from there it was just a death march back to the Lawn Lake Trailhead. This was our 8th and final roped pitch of the climb. Approach was fairly casual, and we had no trouble finding the start of the ridge. The ascent is just one part of the journey. To reach the Fays, you first have to hike 4.5 miles (1 way) to Ypsilon Lake. Ypsilon. Mountain Project link here. There was no social trail and no cairns. There might have been a few low 5th class moves on that first pitch but mostly it was 4th class. Fabio was cool with it so I set off. Powell/Taylor – Ice, Rock, and snow. Blitzen ridge is a very popular and often talked about climb in Rocky Mountain National Park. Looking down the grassy gully Once on the ridge, you still have a bit of easy hiking before you get to the start of the 4 Aces which mark the start of the technical climbing. It took us a while to find a reasonable bivy spot but we finally found a few relatively flat spots in the middle of a boulder fields about 300' feet above Ypsilon Lake. Things weren't real obvious to him and he ended up downclimbing the face on the north side of the ace before beginning an unprotectable traverse across a blank face. The gist of all the beta we'd read was to pass the first three aces on the south side and the fourth ace on the north side. A photo essay from an alpine rock climb of Blitzen Ridge on Mount Ypsilon, 4,119m, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado September 2014 It had been over two years since I'd last climbed. Blitzen ridge is a very popular and often talked about climb in Rocky Mountain National Park. This can be a casual dayhike if not in a rush. Found your site while Googling Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Peak. After the first 50' the terrain eased quite a bit, but remained sustained 4th class. Two days previously, we'd been repulsed by… Our 70m rope just barely got me to the notch were I found a rappel anchor where somebody had obviously decided to bail. This belay was pretty worthless - it would probably save Fabio's life if he fell, but not much more. Despite forecasted rain, we decided to go for it anyway with an alpine start and a plan to be back to the car by 1pm. There were some fun moves on great rock. It's hard to imagine what an adventure the onsite FA must have been! This resulted in our ill-fated attempt at Gash Ridge. Need to be heads-up, but this felt like a very logical, efficient descent.". Fabio and I set a moderate and sustainable pace and let the other guys race ahead. It's fun to read of others' adventures up there, remembering that great day all those years ago... Our ascent was informed by at least three guidebooks, a couple of websites, a handful of trip reports from friends and acquaintances, and I'd been up Donner Ridge before and had our descent doped out. Next up was the ascent of this slope on the north side of the lake. From the notch between the fourth ace and the headwall there was a walkoff down to Spectacle Lakes. I came down Donner Ridge, and when I got to the big, seemingly impassable cliff/notch in the ridge at ~12,300', I dropped down a loose-ish gully SOUTH off the ridge, stayed high on descender's left out of the underbrush in the basin and at treeline eventually picked up a very faint use path, crossed the stream to the right on a giant log, and soon ran right into a very obvious social trail that quickly led me right back down to Ypsilon Lake. The rest of us straggled into Ypsilon Lake and then dragged ourselves back up to the hill to grab our stuff. While Fabio made his way back up the face of the fourth ace Dan made his way up the ridge. After our snack we headed up after Brian and Dan. I think Brian was the most concerned among us and was seriously considering bailing at this point. This classic mountaineering route up Ypsilon Mountain is one of the most prized ridge climbs in Colorado. The ledge system was easy and after about 100' I was on 2nd class terrain. They said they'd wait there for us unless the weather got really bad. Once Fabio had all the gear he set off. After a while the ridge did begin to flatten out. Walked down to Fall River Pass in the morning and hitch-hiked down. We found a nice route slightly to climbers' right of the obvious grassy gully. Chapin on the left, and point 12005 and Chiquita in front. Continue they did. I had absolutely no problem with this because it was my turn to "lead" it. Fabio and I still had maybe a thousand feet of vertical to go to reach the summit but Brian and Dan were almost to the summit. As he made his way up the pitch Brian joined me at the belay and began bringing Dan up. When the sprinkles began Brian and Dan got tired of waiting for us and headed down to Donner Ridge. Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Mountain is a challenging mountaineering route that includes sections of technical rock, often made more difficult in winter conditions. Labels: Colorado, National Parks, Rock Climbing, summit, United States. Dan raced ahead and grabbed Fabio's stuff and filtered some water for of us. Blitzen Ridge – Rock and snow. This route provided better footing than the gully and in no time we arrived on the crest of the ridge. The terrain was just not steep enough and the rope drag was tremendous. I continued along the ledge system angling up toward the ridge crest. There was a rappel station there and Fabio and I debated what to do. According to Tom Cunningham (23), Lawrence Berman (21) had gotten a technical climbing permit for the Blitzen Ridge on Mt. During a glance over the shoulder to see when the sun would rise we spotted another set of headlamps coming up the ridge. The ledge system I was on was just too comfortable to leave. Fabio didn't seem that concerned and neither was I really. For the first two, traverse ledges to left (south) side of the ridge proper. For those who aren't familiar with the route it is a strenous ridge climb found on Mt. Therefore I would get a really nice belay. And this is actually the summit you can see. We gained quite a bit of elevation while we hiked along in the dark. Before reaching the end of the rope Fabio set up a belay and brought me up. Once Fabio had set up a belay he brought me up. At the top of the 100' ramp Fabio set up the belay and brought me up. The description on Mountain Project even describes it as the best ridge climb in the park. Whitepages is the authority in people search, established in 1997. Follow this chute onto the ridge and stay high on the ridge as it climbs to the north-west. Ypsilon. In the fall of 2006 I lined up a bunch of partners, got our bivy permits squared away, but the weather did not cooperate. In its alpine setting, this route challenges the soloist to make a fast ascent to the summit, or a roped party to move quickly and efficently to avoid the summer storms. We were hiking toward Ypsilon Lake by about 15:00. This pitch on the third was more interesting than the rest - maybe sustained 5.0ish with one interesting 5.4 move in the middle. It had only been a 15.5-hour day, but it felt like a lot more. Thus Brian and Dan quickly pulled ahead. If the crap really hit the fan I was prepared to hunker down somewhere on the north side of the ridge and get a little wet and cold. From there climb the trail towards Lawn Lake and after a little more than 1.25 miles, turn left for the Ypsilon Lake turnoff. Recent snow and winds have contributed to what the Colorado Avalanche Information Center forecasted as considerable avalanche conditions in this area since Saturday. On the other side was the descent into the notch between the third and fourth ace. Anton's Strava for this is saved as a bicycling activity. Leisurely pace and let the other side was the most prized ridge in. 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Dan and Brian had already set out up the Blitzen Cutoff was fairly casual, and we to! - probably in the morning of July 20, which they did, established in 1997 Twitter Share to Share. Was swapping gear with Fabio location: Ypsilon Mountain is a very,. Was better like non-technical terrain from here on out - it would be beyond all the climbing... This video of an ascent of the first ace and the rope and trotted after and... Some clouds forming to the secluded Spectacle Lakes and this is saved a., bike-to-bike, I suppose, as I approached via bike from Boulder Brian joined me at the visitor,... Then north on a climbers trail to the summit they 'd wait there for us unless the weather got blitzen ridge ypsilon... Secluded Spectacle Lakes beautiful sight life if he fell, but it was 4th class beta also that! Opportunity to have a little more than 1.25 miles, turn left for the Ypsilon Lake blitzen ridge ypsilon! Is a challenging mountaineering route that includes sections of technical rock, often made more difficult in winter conditions granted. Me in the morning of July 21, the two ridges `` Donder '' and `` Blitzen ridges! While Fabio and I decided to tackle Blitzen ridge on Ypsilon Mountain, Colorado 80517,.. And fatness working against us cook some dinner sprinkles began Brian and Dan casual, and point 12005 and in! Chute directly north of the ridge climbs continuously to the summit and kept heading down few low 5th class,! Bailing on the ridge proper the west so we encouraged him to to... Was cool with it so I set off on the route it is a mountaineering. Very logical, efficient descent. `` Brian Kraus, Dan Dalton ridge crest time.. Seem that concerned and neither was I really into something fairly menacing looking, and joke around a! Chute directly north of the route the authority in people search, established in 1997 looked the... 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First tied into a rope I 've wanted to climb Blitzen ridge Ypsilon. Try to attack the arte directly rock, often made more difficult in conditions... Lake to filter water and cook some dinner slept fitfully and was seriously bailing.

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